Petzl Nomic and Petzl Ergo comments.

As much as I like the Nomic I climbed all of last winter in North America with the new Ergo. And for the most part loved every minute of it. We had the earliest ice and some of the latest ice I have ever seen..



For everything I got on the Ergo was big fun. Even easier to climb with on steep terrain than the original Nomic. With a single exception.



There were a few times (OK be honest more than a few) that I was flagging on. I was getting tired. When that happens I get sloppy. Or it was just really cold. I get sloppy then too.







Somewhere we were soloing easy terrain and I was both cold and tired. And I had big gloves on. When all that happens with a pair of Nomic I now realise that I will often drop my little finger (and sometimes even my ring finger)out of the grip and let them hangbelow the rotation point on the tool.



But let me back up a bit here. Petzl has gone to great lengths to add a serrated stainless blade to the pommel of the newest tools. With varying levels of success mind you over two seasons. But what we have now allows you to use the Nomic or Ergo on moderate terrain easier and just as importantly (may be more so) add some stability to the tool on steep ice after a pick stick.



Call the serrated blade in the pommel a good thing. Except when it is not.





New Ergo on the left with theolder style and smooth pommel piece



New Nomic and the new serrated pommel on the right

I and many others have used the originalNomic in alpine terrain to good effect. You adapt and use the tool differently on moderate terrain. But the serrated pommel allows even more use of the Nomic in the mtns. The pommelchange is an improvement in normal conditions.



But on technical ground not so much in a verylimited circumstance. Here is why I think so. Even if I don't drop a finger out of the grip, I want as much rotation from the tool as possible. One reason I think the Fusion is an inferior tool for most in comparison to the Nomic. The spike of the Fusion and the serrated blade on the Nomic will eventually limit the rotation of the tool in the palm of your hand.



I might accept that in the Nomic and have with the newest tools and while climbing with the new Fusion and the spike attached.. But on the Ergo...not so much. Changing picks today on my Ergos I got to thinking..."the Ergo would be a better tool for me on really difficult climbing with the older,smooth and non serrated pommel". Easy change. Now if I drop a finger or two I won't mutilate them at the end of the swing. The stainless serrated pommel will do that and shred a pair of gloves as well if theyget between your finger and the ice.



That experiencecan be painful and indelible.

Easy answer? "Does that hurt?" "Then stop doing *IT*!" If I worked at it Icould always keep my hands and arms in the bus. But being tired comes with the game as does cold temps and big gloves. Generally if I have my Ergos out I am likely to get bit again. So I changed the pommels to the original style. Depending on what the climb is I might even change out my new Nomic's pommelsas well.



Not the typical response when looking at the old or new Petzl tools but something to think about if the parts are available. Everyone seems to wantthe new serrated pommel on their old tools. I prefer having the option of both style of pommel. And if I had to chose between the two for every condition I'd stay with the smooth, original ones. I know I'll get tired again and I won't keep my hands and arms inside the bus.



Back to the issue of the pommels themselves.



It is not like I am making this stuff up! What happened to the "old days" when a broken grip rest was the rare and onlyissue with a Nomic?



The new improved - tools just became available again recently in Europe and now here in the US and North America. Already I am getting reports in ofloosepommels.



this is typical:



"Interestingly though I've had mine for 1 month now. Bought a brand new pair at full retailas soon as they hit the shops here in Chamonix. The bottom griprest has already started to wobble on me. Pretty annoying but I was just wondering if you knew of anyone who has had the same issue?"



The answer is, yes. Theone pictured below is not the first I have heard about or seen.



photo courtesy of a CT reader



A fewfailures reportedboth loose inserts andinserts coming out early thiswinter soit is already obvious the "fix" isn't good enough. A liberal application of steel based epoxy kept my Ergos going all of last winter. Only one size grip though because of it. I'd suggest doing the same to your new tools. And I really hate adding this...as dumb as it might sound.......but be gentle with your pommels. You can imagine just how careful I am with mine when mixing and matching pommels. Which has to be analmost acertain recipe for failure until Petzl decides to do this right again.



Petzl reports the new pommel at double the last versions strength.



"How strong is the GRIPREST?



GRIPREST strength was doubled to withstand loads of 300daN."





http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/news/events-0//10/12/newly-modified-versions-nomic-and-ergo-ice-axes-are-available





pommel photos courtesy of Dave Searle

Leics Round 8 - Woodhouse Eaves to Rearsby

With Marta. An interesting walk undulating, not hilly -reservoir, towns, villages. Fine weather not too hot. Almost 12.5 miles. 429 ft of ascent.





The drive from Rearsby was very pleasant, through Ratcliffe on the Wreake, and over to Cossington via Humble Hill. There are fine views from here. Then on through some picturesque villages over Swithland Reservoir and on to Woodhouse Eaves, where we began our walk.













We park on Maplewell Road, and walk downhill, across the main road to Meadow Road. The grass track takes us past the primary school. We turn right diagonallly across a field, then following its hedge until we meet a road.





We cross over and walk along the field edge. The path goes in this direction over five fields, heading towards the Great Central Railway line. A steam train passes by, right on cue.





We walk alongside the railway for a short distance, then cross the bridge and walk along a quiet road, along the Swithland reservoir dam.

Looking back to the Charnwood hills

the overflow channel and a serious hunk of granite

Kinchley Lane takes us past some pretty cottages

Hawthorn topiary?

At the T-junction we turn left, and soon right - there's a bench here, but - the cheek - two people are already sitting there. We'll have to walk a little further before our break today.



Another few hundred yards of road - a man emerges from the footpath on our left, and asks us where "the round" is - he's not impressed that it's along the road! He's walking at a fair lick, so we let him dash on with a cheery wave.



Shortly after a railway bridge there's a turn to the right along a farm track. He's missed it, and we're not entirely sure, until we check our nook and map. The sign's not there. By the time we've decided he's well out of earshot.



The track skirts an old quarry and brings us out at Castle Hill in Mountsorrel. No castle now, alas, but there's a beacon and a war memorial. A severe notice warns that sitting and hanging around isn't allowed - it would show disrespect to those young soldiers, who would probably have indulged in canoodling, given half a chance and a longer life.

A handy bench - coffee up!

Beacon on Castle Hill

Sobering to see how many names from one family are remembered here.

We walk down Watling Street into Mountsorrel, which has several interesting buildings:

The Buttercross

Temperance Hall, now a private house

All I could make out on this was the name Inglesant

Old coaching inn dated 1713

Parish Rooms - ex infant school and Mechanics Institute

We walk through the small town and across the recreation ground. We make a small accidental detour here, but we're soon back on track. The next big obstacle is the A6. The original route takes you straight across, though the path looks impassable. Just as well. A much better alternative is to follow the path for a quarter of a mile or so to the underpass.

In this tree is a bird, with a longish tail and pale yellowish underside. Not a tit. could it be a grey wagtail? Very close to the A6.

After this noisy section of the walk we cross fields and bridges to Sileby Mill Boatyard on the river Soar. The shop sells snacks and cold drinks, and lots of boating gear, maps and charts. I decide against buying the sailing captain peaked cap - I'd look silly, really.















So it's on along the riverside path past gravel pits towards Cossington. Another picturesque village, but we're on a mission for lunch. The Royal Oak does a good sandwich, salad and chips.



We decide we should have a wander round the village - there's a moat on the map and we haven't seen it. When in doubt ask a local dog-walker. He shows us the moat - round an island belonging to the Hall - or perhaps the old rectory.

Trees planted for royal occasions from 1902 onwards.

The moat and hall

Cossington church

From here it's another couple of miles, along Bennetts Road and Blackberry Hill, past Ratcliffe College - a Catholic boarding school, high on the hill, and down - across the A46. At least it's dual carriageway with a central reservation. More fields and a minor road. Left here than a footpath on the right - there are two and it doesn't matter which we take as they join at Rearsby Mill - now a beautifully situated house.

We have to cross the main railway line and it's a short distance to Rearsby.

At the corner of Mill Road and Brookside "It is said that in1753 John Wesley stood on this stone to preach to the villagers of Rearsby. The world is my pulpit."

Desert Calm

After an argument with someone you love a couple of hours out on the desert alone can really help. Or at least it helped me to calm down yesterday. There is something about being out on the desert that makes you realize just how small you are in comparison to all the nothing-ness that is all around you. Or at first it seems like nothing-ness but the longer you are there you realize just how much there is on the desert. At first it is hard to see anything but sky, dirt and weeds. But gradually the sky gets bluer or darker, or cloudy-er. Then the weeds become sagebrush, wildflowers, and juniper trees. The dirt wholes it all together. It may be sandy and blowing or just down right irritating but it is there to make sure the flowers, brush, and trees are able to survive. As you spend more time on the desert you will start to see the other lives that live there. The birds rabbits, mice, coyotes, foxes, badgers, and if your really lucky deer, bobcats, porcupines.

Here are a few photos of some of the cholla cactus that were blooming. That luscious purple color can't conceivable come from a stickery cactus but it does. And of course the bees were just thick on them.

Mt. Rainier, Liberty Ridge

Jim and Dave saw this mother black bear and her two cubs cross the White River and head off into the woods!




Mama bear and cub crossing river.


Other cub crossing river.




Skiers going over and around crevasses, on the Emmons Glacier, near Camp Schurman.


Glacier Basin.




House sized seracs on the Winthrop Glacier.




Doug, the Willis Wall, Liberty Ridge and Ptarmigan Ridge as seen from Curtis Ridge.



Liberty Ridge.






The Carbon Glacier and North side of Rainier.







A tilted serac on the Carbon Glacier.






Alpenglow on Liberty Ridge.








Sunset the first night.










Mark at our bivy site on the Carbon Glacier.










Mark starting up Liberty Ridge.











Sunrise on Liberty Ridge.













Mark watching the sunrise.












Mark climbing above Thumb Rock.













Mark high on Liberty Ridge with Willis Wall in background.



















Doug below the Black Pyramid.














Mark beside the Black Pyraimid.













Nearing the icy section at the top of Liberty Ridge.















Crevasse at 14,000'.

















A decade of snowfall layers exposed in the Liberty Cap Glacier.













Doug crossing the bergschrund.
















Mark leading up the steep icy section at the top of Liberty Ridge.














Climbing into a cloud!
















Doug following up the steep ice.















Mark on Liberty Cap.
















Doug on Liberty Cap.
















Doug heading toward the Emmons Glacier.















Doug dropping into a hidden crevasse right by Camp Schurman.














Doug and Mark down at Camp Schurman, with Jim and Dave, for our second night on the mountain.













Sunrise at Camp Schurman.
















Mark, Dave, Jim (and Doug) at Glacier Basin heading out. Meanwhile a storm is brewing high up on the mountain. We had to shorten this climb by one day to beat the storm. It was another awesome climb, with good friends, enjoying God's beautiful creation!